Baconmania: The Strips That Keep on Sizzling
We ask five local meat experts why food trends come and go, but bacon seems eternal
When the single-focus San Francisco Bacon Bacon food truck launched this July, some scoffed that the bacon-everything trend had jumped the shark. But Bacon Bacon had the last laugh on the naysayers; from day one, the truck developed a cult following and fielded insanely long lines. In a city that’s already mad over food trucks, this one brought mania to a whole new level.
So what’s the deal with bacon? In the heart of innovative food offerings, is there some reason this behemoth trend outlasts cupcakes and guacamole and figs on a plate? Is it even fair to call something with this much longevity and mass appeal a trend? We asked five high-profile San Francisco bacon slingers for their take on this meaty topic, and this is what we learned.
Dontaye Ballchef at Good Foods Catering and creator of the All-Bacon Dinner
What’s the secret to bacon’s lasting popularity?
When you think of bacon, it’s basically the epitome of being an American. It’s always been that way, but it’s getting more popular now as people back away from the commercial stuff and start seeing how good bacon really can taste.
Why do you love bacon?
Oh man, I’m from the South and it was just part of growing up. My best friend’s grandfather used to eat it every effing day. I probably eat bacon four times a week myself. It’s just so perfect: you can eat it savory or sweet, and bacon fat can be used in so many different ways.
What’s a bacon dish that drives you wild?
I make a bacon dust using tapioca starch, which basically turns fat into a powder. You put it in your mouth and you get this powerful flavor but the dust disintegrates and you’re like, “What just happened?” I like putting bacon dust on a dish with clams, chickpeas, and pork belly.
Is there any dish where bacon isn’t cool?
I made a bacon milkshake that just did not work. I used chocolate ice cream and vanilla bean, but the problem was that the bacon was way too smoky. The objective was to highlight bacon’s saltiness, and I failed.
Chris Cosentinochef at Incanto and founder of Boccalone: Tasty Salted Pig Parts
What’s the secret to bacon’s lasting popularity?
It’s not really a trend, it’s a staple. It’s a consistent, everyday part of Americana. You look at classic Norman Rockwell pictures of people at a diner, and what are they eating? Bacon and eggs. There’s just a surge of interest right now because people are getting excited about all the new types of bacon from smart artisan producers.
Why do you love bacon?
It goes well with so many things. Bacon lends depth and richness to other foods.
What’s a bacon dish that drives you wild?
I can’t think of anything specific but it’s especially good when you pair bacon with something unexpected. Putting the familiar with the unfamiliar always piques interest.
Is there any dish where bacon isn’t cool?
That’s hard to say. Maybe it’s bad with like, passion fruit, but I’ve never had it so I can’t really say. I haven’t tried every combination of bacon; there isn’t enough time in the day. All I know is that’s it’s a loved product for young and old, and it will always be that way. There is nothing wrong with that.
Jim Angelusfounder of Bacon Bacon truck
What’s the secret to bacon’s lasting popularity?
It’s something everyone can relate to, on a deeper level than just being a “guilty pleasure.” People come up to me all the time with some bacon story about their husband or their dad or their sister. It’s part of all of us.
Why do you love bacon?
Nostalgia. It reminds me of breakfast with my family as a kid.
What’s a bacon dish that drives you wild?
I love the grilled cheese we make with sweet bacon jam, and tomatoes. Oh yeah, and strips of bacon. It’s one of those sweet and salty combos that just works.
Is there any dish where bacon isn’t cool?
Man, why would you even ask that question?! I guess there’s some Southeast Asian cuisine that doesn’t seem like a good fit for bacon. Like, I probably wouldn’t want it in my cashew chicken. Also, sometimes bacon isn’t used effectively. I’ve gotten “bacon cheeseburgers” where there’s like one strip of bacon on a huge patty. I paid for the bacon, so where is it?
Ryan Farrowner of 4505 Meats
What’s the secret to bacon’s lasting popularity?
It wouldn’t be as popular if it wasn’t so fucking good.
Why do you love bacon?
It’s this perfect semi-crispy, flexible little slice. There’s nothing you can’t cook it with, it’s just amazing. And I’ve never heard of anyone ODing on bacon, although maybe that’s just called a heart attack.
What’s a bacon dish that drives you wild?
A couple years ago I had a dessert at Mission Street Food where they put bacon dust on something…pecan pie maybe? That was pretty amazing. We also make a bacon peanut butter chocolate brownie, where we use bacon fat as kind of a glue and put a slice of bacon on top. And of course, there’s our bacon-studded hot dog.
Is there any dish where bacon isn’t cool?
I had some bacon-flavored bubble gum that was just awful; that’s a partnership that did not work.
Tia Harrisonco-owner of Avedano’s butcher shop and the Meat Wagon
What’s the secret to bacon’s lasting popularity?
Enough with the bacon already! It’s obviously delicious, and it looks great when it’s cooked, but c’mon now. All you have to do is say bacon in conversation and it’s automatically associated with awesomeness. It’s like shouting “Beer!” and everyone cheers. It’s way too easy. Bacon is like the fart joke of meats. Try a little harder, you know?
Why do you love bacon?
It’s this attractive little bite-size meat snack that goes well with everything. I’ve heard of vegetarians who make their only exception for bacon. It’s like a gateway meat.
What’s a bacon dish that drives you wild?
I had my friend bring me a maple bacon donut from Voodoo Donuts in Portland. It’s pretty amazing.
Is there any dish where bacon isn’t cool?
See, that’s the wonder: it’s like a no-fail meat. Depending on whether you’re using bacon that’s sweeter, or smokier, or more peppery, you can pair it with just about everything.
Photo: Flickr,Claudine






Andrew S
Like, when are one of those Top Chefs gonna serve me a bacon sausage?
I'm waitin'here. I'm waitin'here.
Susan Suval
I remember one of the first "recipes" I learned to cook was in Brownies. The recipe was called "Angels on Horseback". You took a hotdog and put a slit on top. The slit was filled with cheese. The hotdog was then wrapped with a slice of bacon and broiled.
Reyhan Harmanci
That sounds AMAZING. Thanks for sharing!
Tizzie Lish
I once ordered an appetizer, as a rural restaurant overlooking a private golf course in a fancy part of rural Maryland but the restaurant was not part of the country club . .. but high end. .. I was with a new biz partner who was treating so I extravagantly ordered the angels on horseback. When the angels arrived, she and I both had one and ordered a second order cause we both wanted a whole order.
It was a scallop, doused in horseradish, wrapped in bacon and then broiled. I have a hunch it was even tastier than the hotdog/cheesebacon angel... the 'horse' of course was the horseradish.
On my god, it was awesomely delicious. My biz partner lived in Maryland and she went back to that restaurant just for the angels on horseback but they were gone. Which kinda fit: angels are ephemeral, eh?